Sunday, June 13, 2004

A couple of weeks ago, we took a day trip to Winchester to see its magnificent cathedral and other sights.

Winchester, which is about 60 miles southwest of central London, was the capital of 9th Century Saxon King Alfred the Great's Wessex. It once had status akin to that of London (William the Conqueror had his coronations in both cities). And then of course, there's the old-time song "Winchester Cathedral."

It took us a little more than an hour to reach the city by train from Waterloo station.

Once there, a short walk south and then east takes you into the center of town (take the High Street, which has an imposing statue of Alfred at the east end).

"The Rough Guide to England" describes the cathedral's exterior as "squat and massive" and that's accurate. But when you go inside, you'll find a soaring Nave, a magnificent Norman section, 14th Century choir stalls -- and writer Jane Austen's grave.

Fishing great Izaak Walton, who wrote "The Compleat Angler" -- a "classic guide to the joys of fishing" -- in 1653, is also buried in the cathedral, in the Fishermen's Chapel.

Also worth visiting are the ruins of the medieval Wolvesey Palace and Castle, the seat of the bishops of Winchester. The bishop of Winchester continues to enjoy a mansion, which adjoins the ruins.

The palace was the site of the wedding breakast of England's Queen Mary and Philip of Spain in July 1554. The city is commemorating the 450th anniversary of the event this year.

We had time for a pleasant visit to the 18th-Century City Mill along the small, gentle River Itchen and the Great Hall, all that remains of a 13th-century castle pulled down by Oliver Cromwell's forces in 1646 during the English Civil War.

On one wall hangs "King Arthur's Round Table," which it now turns out was made in the 14th Century and probably has as much to do with King Arthur as I do. But it looks impressive and continues to be a tourist draw.

We went on the last Sunday of the month, when they have a farmers' market that covers several blocks and is billed as the largest in the country. In addition to good cheeses, meats, produce, etc., you can buy a grilled burger or sausage. But don't wait to long to go there. It closes at 2 p.m.

We went home in the late afternoon and were back in London before we knew it. A good day.

For a look at the sites, check out VR Winchester. Click on any of the offered panoramas and you will get an app that includes a menu of sights and a map to help find them. Fun!